Circle Vest
Using deceptively simple construction, this vest is easy to knit and takes advantage of the stretchiness of ribbing to provide a flattering fit. Knit stitches on each side of the ribbing make a built in edge for the armhole. There are two versions: with ruffles (above) and without, depending on how fitted you wish the vest to be.
*The pattern includes twelve sizes and instructions for four weights of yarn (dk, worsted, aran, bulky)*
FAQ for the Circle Vest.
1. How much yarn do I need?
See the size chart below:
2. Why so many sizes when the back measurements are similar?
The front is knit longer for bigger sizes to account for the bust.
3. How long of a needle do I need?
Shorter than your chest measurements because you work in the round.
4. Can I make it bigger/smaller/a different size?
Yes. The pattern is very easy to adjust, so it is simple to change the length of the armholes, length of the front, make it wider or shorter, etc.
5. How do you keep it closed?
I used a brooch with a long pin back to keep it closed since I like to be able to adjust how I wear it. If you wanted a more permanent closure you could add buttons or snaps.
6. Do you mean bust measurement?
Nope! Measure around your chest below your bust. If you are especially busty or want more coverage you can knit the front longer.
7. How do I try it on?
For the armholes: fold the piece in half and slip an arm through. Your arm up to the shoulder should easily fit through the opening.
For the front it is best to put the piece on the scrap yarn or extra needles to try it on.
8. What does shoulder to shoulder mean?
Measure the widest part across your back at the shoulders.
9. Can I add sleeves?
The fit of the vest does (or can) cover part of the shoulders, but doesn't have sleeves.
For sleeves I would pick up stitches along the armhole like you would for a drop shoulder sweater.
To make cap sleeves, pick up the stitches, work a couple rounds, then bind off or work short rows from the underarm up until the sleeve is long enough.
To make the armhole edge nicely finished with sleeves you will want to add an extra knit stitch on each edge of the armhole (so you have knit 3 instead of knit 2 at beginning and end). This gives you an extra stitch so when you pick up the ribbing pattern is not disturbed. Decrease this stitch before working the front/collar section.
10. Yarage- Why does the pattern call for so much yarn?
Many loose knitters can knit the pattern in half the yarn called for if they are not doing the ruffled sizes. The yardage is so generous because:
a.) If you are a tight knitter your gauge is going to make you need to knit more rows to get the length compared to someone who knits very loose. It takes up MUCH more yarn if you are having to knit 6 rows for every 3 of a loose knitter.
b.) Yardage includes ruffled version, which takes up much more yarn than the plain version
c.) Yardage accounts for the fact that some people may wish to add an extra inch or two to the length to provide more bust coverage, which especially in the ruffled version takes up a lot of yarn.
11. Armholes too big
If your armholes are too big you can seam them closed. If you know they are going to be too big in your size you can knit the first section shorter to match your desigered armhole length instead. Armholes are intentionally large so people can wear the vest over clothing and because not everyone's arms are super skinny (and you don't want armholes to be too tight near the bust either!)!
11. Picking up stitches from the provisional cast on looks funny.
This is unfortunately the nature of the beast with provisional cast ons (and knitting "down" after you have been knitting up). The stitches
will be a half stitch off and it will be slightly noticeable in the ribbing- but that's ok, because you tend not to notice it once the ribbing draws in, and the slight "seam" you get can just be worn where the collar folds over it- tada! Not noticeable.
since they have long and pointy tips.